Introduction: “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom” by Barbara Frey Waxman
“Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom,” by Barbara Frey Waxman, first appeared in College English in March 2008, published by the National Council of Teachers of English. In this article, Waxman explores the appeal of food memoirs as literary texts that reveal personal histories, cultural identities, and communal values, often drawing on food as a metaphor for love, identity, and nostalgia. She argues that food memoirs are more than narratives filled with recipes and culinary descriptions; they represent profound reflections on family traditions, cross-cultural experiences, and the processes of self-discovery and identity formation. Waxman asserts that these memoirs offer readers, especially students, valuable insights into diverse cultures, historical traditions, and the universality of food as a social bond. By studying food memoirs, students can develop empathy and emotional intelligence, as well as deepen their understanding of literary techniques, such as metaphor and narrative voice. Waxman champions the inclusion of food memoirs in literature classrooms for their rich narrative styles, emotional depth, and their potential to broaden students’ perspectives on multiculturalism, personal growth, and the enduring human connection to food.
Summary of “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom” by Barbara Frey Waxman
- Defining Food Memoirs and Their Appeal
Food memoirs offer narratives where food memories reveal the growth and development of the writer. These memoirs often feature emotionally rich stories interwoven with vivid descriptions of food, creating a deep resonance with readers. Waxman argues that food memoirs are distinct from other food writing because they often begin with childhood memories or flashbacks, providing insights into family, culture, and identity. She describes how these texts blend culinary and cultural elements that give readers insight into the writers’ lives and perspectives, making them highly engaging and educational in a classroom setting (Waxman 365). - Autobiographical and Ethnographic Qualities
Food memoirs not only reflect personal experiences but often serve as a form of “auto-ethnography,” where the author explains their cultural background through the lens of food. This characteristic enables readers to learn about different traditions and customs from an insider’s perspective, fulfilling a dual role of personal narrative and cultural education. Waxman references Paul John Eakin’s theory that memoirists adopt an “ethnographic posture” toward their own past, sharing these customs and stories with a broader audience (Waxman 366). - Food as a Link in Diaspora Narratives
The memoirs Waxman examines often focus on the experience of living in the diaspora, where food becomes a medium for preserving cultural identity and memory. These narratives, such as those by Diana Abu-Jaber and Shoba Narayan, highlight the emotional struggle of immigrants attempting to recreate their native dishes with American ingredients. This struggle reflects both their connection to their heritage and the adaptation required to live in a new culture. Waxman argues that these memoirs offer valuable insights into the complexities of cultural adaptation and identity formation (Waxman 369-370). - The Food Memoir as Multicultural Literature
Food memoirs also serve as powerful multicultural texts, providing insight into how food traditions bridge cultural divides. For example, through detailed descriptions of traditional ceremonies and festive meals, authors like Leslie Li and Elizabeth Ehrlich invite readers into Chinese and Jewish cultural practices, respectively. This process helps demystify foreign customs and fosters empathy and understanding, reinforcing the role of food memoirs as vehicles for cultural education (Waxman 367). - Psychological Insights and Family Dynamics
Waxman discusses how food memoirs provide an intimate view of family relationships and psychological dynamics within different cultural contexts. She cites Madhur Jaffrey’s memoir, which portrays both idyllic and painful memories within her extended family. These personal stories offer readers a window into the emotional and sometimes challenging aspects of family life across cultures, highlighting universal themes such as love, loss, and resilience (Waxman 371). - Mentoring and Self-Reinvention Through Food
Many food memoirs highlight the role of mentors in the author’s culinary and personal growth, symbolizing a “second family” and guiding them toward self-reinvention. For instance, in Ruth Reichl’s “Tender at the Bone,” culinary mentors help her find independence and purpose, even as she distances herself from a difficult family background. These mentors often encourage the authors to overcome personal struggles and cultivate a fulfilling career in the food world, symbolizing the transformative power of food and mentorship (Waxman 376-377). - Eroticism and the Sensuality of Food
Waxman notes the erotic elements present in many food memoirs, which link the physical pleasure of eating with broader themes of desire and connection. In Reichl’s memoir, the sensuality of food is portrayed vividly, mirroring her personal relationships and romantic experiences. This erotic aspect appeals to readers on a primal level, adding another layer of intimacy to the food memoir genre and contributing to its popularity and allure (Waxman 378). - Life Lessons in Moral and Emotional Intelligence
Food memoirs convey life lessons that cultivate readers’ moral and emotional intelligence. Waxman suggests that by reading about other families’ challenges and dynamics, students can better understand and reflect upon their own relationships and values. The emotional depth and ethical dilemmas presented in these narratives foster empathy and encourage readers to appreciate the complexity of human connections and cultural identities (Waxman 380). - Justification for Food Memoirs in the Classroom
Waxman argues that food memoirs are valuable teaching tools, enriching literature classrooms by introducing students to diverse cultural perspectives, promoting introspection, and fostering emotional growth. The genre’s familiar subject matter—food—makes it approachable and engaging for students. By analyzing these memoirs, students can learn about narrative structure, cultural symbolism, and identity formation, making food memoirs a unique and effective addition to literature curricula (Waxman 381-382).
Literary Terms/Concepts in “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom” by Barbara Frey Waxman
| Literary Term/Concept | Description | Application in Food Memoirs |
| Auto-Ethnography | A form of self-reflection and writing that explores the writer’s personal experiences and connects them to broader cultural, political, and social meanings and understandings. | Food memoirists use their personal food stories to reveal and explain cultural practices to readers. For instance, Diana Abu-Jaber and Shoba Narayan provide insights into cultural customs and traditional foods, helping readers understand the immigrant experience and cultural heritage through food. (Waxman 366-367) |
| Diaspora | The dispersion of people from their original homeland and the cultural identity and nostalgia associated with it. | Food memoirs frequently discuss the role of food in preserving cultural identity for those in the diaspora. For example, memoirs by authors like Diana Abu-Jaber and Leslie Li reveal how food helps them connect with their heritage and navigate their dual cultural identity. (Waxman 369-370) |
| Bildungsroman | A literary genre focusing on the psychological and moral growth of the protagonist from youth to adulthood. | Waxman suggests that food memoirs often resemble a culinary bildungsroman, tracing the author’s journey toward maturity and professional identity in the food world, as seen in Ruth Reichl’s “Tender at the Bone,” which chronicles her growth as a food writer. (Waxman 365) |
| Sensory Imagery | Descriptive language that appeals to the senses, helping readers to visualize, smell, taste, hear, and feel scenes vividly. | Food memoirists use vivid sensory details to evoke strong responses in readers, often connecting food with memories and emotions. For instance, Ruth Reichl describes her first taste of brie as a sensual experience, using imagery that engages readers’ senses. (Waxman 378) |
| Metaphor and Symbolism | Using one thing to represent or symbolize another, often to convey deeper meanings or associations. | Waxman notes how food becomes a metaphor for love, family bonds, and emotional needs in memoirs. For instance, M. F. K. Fisher links the satisfaction of hunger with the satisfaction of love, showing food as a symbol for human connection and warmth. (Waxman 373) |
| Mentorship | A recurring theme in narratives where characters provide guidance, support, and life lessons, often leading to the protagonist’s growth. | Mentors in food memoirs guide authors through personal and professional growth. In Ruth Reichl’s memoir, mentors teach her about food and life, helping her gain independence and emotional resilience. This theme underscores the idea of food professionals as a “second family.” (Waxman 377) |
| Transculturalism | The blending and merging of cultures, often resulting from global interaction and exchange. | Waxman highlights how food memoirs explore the unifying power of food across cultural boundaries, such as Leslie Li’s description of Chinese New Year foods. This cultural blending makes food memoirs an effective tool for teaching multicultural literature. (Waxman 367) |
| Eroticism and Sensuality | The use of language to convey sensual pleasure or erotic attraction, often in connection with food. | Food memoirs often portray food experiences as sensual or erotic, linking physical taste to emotional or romantic desire. Waxman mentions Isabel Allende’s use of food’s seductive powers in “Aphrodite,” adding another layer of engagement for readers. (Waxman 378) |
| Emotional and Moral Intelligence | The development of empathy, self-awareness, and understanding of ethical values, often encouraged by literature that explores family dynamics and personal relationships. | Through stories of dysfunctional family relationships and personal growth, food memoirs encourage readers to reflect on moral and emotional values. Waxman asserts that Madhur Jaffrey’s memoirs, which depict complex family dynamics, help readers build empathy and moral understanding. (Waxman 380) |
| Nostalgia | A sentimental longing or wistful affection for the past, often idealized or remembered through specific experiences, symbols, or cultural practices. | Waxman describes how food memoirs convey a sense of nostalgia, as authors remember early food experiences tied to family and culture. Nigel Slater’s “Toast,” for example, recalls the taste and smell of foods from his childhood, which convey a deep sense of longing and identity. (Waxman 375) |
Contribution of “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom” by Barbara Frey Waxman to Literary Theory/Theories
- Autobiographical Theory and Auto-Ethnography
Waxman’s analysis highlights the role of auto-ethnography in food memoirs, where memoirists serve as “insiders” offering personal yet culturally informative narratives. Waxman aligns with Paul John Eakin’s view that memoirists often function as auto-ethnographers who interpret their childhood communities for readers. She emphasizes that food memoirists explore their personal identities and family traditions through food, functioning as “cultural interpreters” who explain their cultural customs to outsiders (Waxman 366). This extension of autobiographical theory sees memoir as not only self-revelatory but as inherently cultural and didactic, linking individual memory to collective cultural identity. - Memory Theory
The article connects memory theory with food memoirs, particularly the constructed nature of memory in autobiographical writing. Waxman incorporates Eakin’s insights that “memory constructs the materials from the past,” and memoirists “refashion” these memories in their narratives (Waxman 366). In food memoirs, sensory experiences—especially taste and smell—are instrumental in accessing memories, a concept Waxman supports with Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin’s notion of “taste memories” and James Beard’s reflections on memory’s physical connection to food (Waxman 364). This contribution deepens memory theory by emphasizing the unique sensory and emotional access food offers to autobiographical memory. - Cultural Anthropology
Waxman’s work contributes to cultural anthropology by positioning food memoirs as key texts for examining cultural practices. Citing anthropologists’ views that cooking and eating mark social boundaries and reinforce group identities, she demonstrates how food memoirists like Shoba Narayan and Leslie Li convey cultural belonging and values through culinary rituals. Waxman aligns with Robin Fox’s idea that food helps define social boundaries (Waxman 367) while simultaneously expanding readers’ understanding of various cultural practices. This approach establishes food memoirs as significant texts in studying identity formation, assimilation, and the cultural significance of culinary practices in literary analysis. - Diaspora and Transcultural Theory
Waxman positions food memoirs as crucial to diaspora and transcultural theory, suggesting that food serves as a “contact zone” where diasporic individuals negotiate their identities between “here” and “there” (Waxman 369). Memoirs by authors like Diana Abu-Jaber depict this “Janus-faced” existence, using food to connect with their heritage while adapting to American culture. Waxman’s discussion of the symbolic role of food as a link to cultural roots emphasizes the diasporic individual’s negotiation of identity and belonging, contributing to transcultural theory by showing how food acts as a mediator of cultural memory and assimilation. - Feminist Theory
Waxman’s exploration of the feminist implications in food memoirs examines how these texts empower women by celebrating their culinary expertise and personal agency. She highlights the work of M.F.K. Fisher and Ruth Reichl, who gain self-identity and autonomy through food and cooking, transforming traditional domestic roles into forms of personal expression and professional identity (Waxman 365). By acknowledging women’s narratives in a traditionally domestic sphere, Waxman emphasizes the feminist potential of food memoirs in literary studies, where cooking becomes a form of self-discovery and empowerment, thus extending feminist literary theory’s analysis of domestic narratives. - Reader-Response Theory and Sensory Engagement
Waxman’s article contributes to reader-response theory by noting the intense sensory engagement food memoirs evoke, which activates readers’ “jouissance” as described by Roland Barthes. She observes that readers often feel hunger or cravings while reading these vivid descriptions (Waxman 379). This emotional and physical response to food memoirs exemplifies how texts can engage readers in bodily, affective ways, expanding reader-response theory to include multisensory reader experiences that blur the line between reading and tasting. - Narrative Theory and Structure of the Memoir
Waxman discusses the structure of food memoirs as similar to the bildungsroman or growth narrative, contributing to narrative theory by identifying the genre’s progression through childhood experiences with food, the influence of mentors, and the eventual formation of identity and professional role (Waxman 365). This developmental structure is unique to food memoirs, as it combines personal growth with sensory and cultural education, enriching narrative theory’s understanding of memoir as a medium that intertwines the personal and cultural through sensory and emotional experiences.
Examples of Critiques Through “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom” by Barbara Frey Waxman
| Literary Work | Author | Critique Through Waxman’s Themes | Relevant Theme/Concept |
| The Language of Baklava | Diana Abu-Jaber | Waxman discusses how Abu-Jaber’s memoir uses food as a way to navigate and portray Jordanian-American identity. In recounting her father’s attempts to recreate traditional Jordanian foods in the U.S., Waxman interprets food as a “Janus-faced” symbol, connecting the Jordanian diaspora’s experiences of “here” and “there.” | Diaspora and Transcultural Theory |
| The Gastronomical Me | M.F.K. Fisher | Fisher’s memoir explores the connection between food, emotional nourishment, and personal growth. Waxman highlights Fisher’s portrayal of sensual experiences with food as symbolic of her journey into adulthood, where food hunger reflects the broader hunger for love, acceptance, and self-expression. | Autobiographical Theory & Feminist Theory |
| Monsoon Diary | Shoba Narayan | Waxman analyzes how Narayan uses food memories to depict Indian cultural traditions. Descriptions of ceremonies like “choru-unnal” (a child’s first solid meal) function as cultural bridges, allowing non-Indian readers to engage with unfamiliar customs and deepen cross-cultural empathy. | Cultural Anthropology & Auto-Ethnography |
| Tender at the Bone | Ruth Reichl | Reichl’s memoir is used by Waxman to illustrate the development of identity and autonomy through food. Waxman emphasizes the role of Reichl’s mentors in teaching her the skills and emotional resilience to become a food professional, overcoming family dysfunction to create a “new home” in the culinary world. | Feminist Theory & Mentoring/Self-Reinvention |
Criticism Against “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom” by Barbara Frey Waxman
- Overemphasis on Cultural and Ethnic Nostalgia: Waxman’s focus on food as a way to preserve cultural heritage and identity may be viewed as overly nostalgic, potentially oversimplifying the complexities of cultural identity in favor of idealized representations.
- Limited Scope of Literary Analysis: The article primarily examines food memoirs through autobiographical and cultural lenses, potentially neglecting other literary theories and analytical approaches, such as psychoanalytic or postmodern perspectives, that could add depth to the analysis.
- Potentially Narrow View of the Memoir Genre: By focusing on the thematic elements of food and cultural identity, Waxman may overlook how food memoirs intersect with broader themes common in other memoirs, such as trauma, gender identity, or socioeconomic factors.
- Risk of Cultural Stereotyping: The portrayal of food as inherently representative of cultural identity could inadvertently reinforce stereotypes, suggesting that specific foods or culinary practices uniformly define a culture, which may not reflect individual or contemporary cultural diversity.
- Assumed Accessibility for the Classroom: Waxman advocates for the inclusion of food memoirs in literature classrooms, but critics might argue that these works are less academically rigorous or challenging than traditional literary texts, potentially limiting critical engagement and interpretative depth.
- Simplification of Diaspora Experience: Waxman’s interpretation of food as a bridge between “here” and “there” for diasporic communities might simplify the complexities of diaspora, overlooking the varied and sometimes contradictory experiences of those navigating multiple cultural identities.
Representative Quotations from “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom” by Barbara Frey Waxman with Explanation
| Quotation | Explanation |
| 1. “Food memoirists intuitively grasp these important links among smells, tastes, strong emotions, and keen memories.” | Waxman emphasizes the sensory power of food memoirs, which invoke emotions and memories through detailed sensory descriptions, providing readers with visceral experiences that make the past come alive. This helps explain why food memoirs are both appealing and nostalgic for readers. |
| 2. “Food is clearly a link among generations of immigrants and exiles; those who cook and write about food are ‘culture-tenders.'” | Here, Waxman connects food memoirs to cultural preservation. By cooking and sharing stories, authors protect and pass down cultural traditions, making food memoirs a powerful genre for exploring identity, heritage, and intergenerational bonds. |
| 3. “Memoirists often ‘adopt an ethnographic posture’ toward their childhood food culture.” | This quote highlights the role of food memoirists as cultural translators, introducing readers to cultural traditions through a personal lens. This ethnographic approach allows readers to understand not only specific foods but the social and familial practices tied to them. |
| 4. “Culinary memoirs generally trace the memoirists’ passage from youth to a maturity in which they have discovered a passion for food.” | Waxman observes that food memoirs often follow a growth arc similar to a bildungsroman. The narrative is typically a journey of personal discovery and maturity, where food symbolizes both personal and professional fulfillment. |
| 5. “Many of these authors in telling their life stories give readers a little psychology on how to interact with others—even across cultures—and how to get to know themselves.” | Waxman emphasizes that food memoirs are more than personal stories; they offer psychological and social insights. By narrating their experiences with food, authors share life lessons about relationships, self-discovery, and empathy, fostering connections between readers and different cultures. |
| 6. “Food memoirs […] can be both unifying and divisive: they draw boundaries between ‘us’ and ‘them’ and define notions of ‘here’ and ‘there.'” | This quotation speaks to the complexity of food as both a unifier and divider. Waxman acknowledges that while food can bridge cultures, it can also reinforce cultural boundaries, giving food memoirs the ability to explore issues of belonging, identity, and diaspora. |
| 7. “The therapeutic value of writing a cross-cultural food memoir…appeals to American readers who may be the sons and daughters or grandchildren of immigrants.” | Waxman suggests that food memoirs can offer healing, particularly for those experiencing cultural dislocation or loss. This therapeutic angle makes these memoirs resonant for readers exploring their heritage and cultural identity. |
| 8. “Writing about food hunger is really writing about love, and the hunger for it.” | Drawing a parallel between food and emotional nourishment, Waxman demonstrates that food memoirs often go beyond culinary appreciation, delving into universal human experiences like love, connection, and intimacy. |
| 9. “Food memoirs […] often represent food as a Janus-faced signifier, pointing to the ‘here’ of diasporic life and the ‘there’ of a home they cannot really go back to.” | Waxman identifies the dual nature of food for diasporic individuals. Food serves as both a connection to the past and an adaptation to the present, allowing memoirists to explore complex feelings of nostalgia, identity, and assimilation. |
| 10. “Food memoirs cultivate readers’ moral and emotional intelligence.” | Waxman argues that by confronting themes of family, ethics, and emotional conflict, food memoirs encourage readers to reflect on their values and cultivate empathy, making them valuable educational tools in the literature classroom. |
Suggested Readings: “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom” by Barbara Frey Waxman
- Waxman, Barbara Frey. “Food Memoirs: What They Are, Why They Are Popular, and Why They Belong in the Literature Classroom.” College English, vol. 70, no. 4, 2008, pp. 363–83. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/25472276. Accessed 11 Nov. 2024.
- “Front Matter.” College English, vol. 70, no. 4, 2008. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/25472273. Accessed 11 Nov. 2024.
- Avakian, Arlene. “Cooking Up Lives: Feminist Food Memoirs.” Feminist Studies, vol. 40, no. 2, 2014, pp. 277–303. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/10.15767/feministstudies.40.2.277. Accessed 11 Nov. 2024.
- Cognard-Black, Jennifer, and Melissa A. Goldthwaite. “Books That Cook: Teaching Food and Food Literature in the English Classroom.” College English, vol. 70, no. 4, 2008, pp. 421–36. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/25472279. Accessed 11 Nov. 2024.